Uehara Shuzo, Ginjo Sake Furosen Kameno-o, NV BRUNELLODI040225 Villa Tolnay farms at the

Villa Tolnay farms at the foot of the extinct volcano Csobanc in Badacsony

Capalot is one of La Morra's most important crus

buttered almond

and serious—this is Premier Cru Burgundy that rewards patience above all else

and critics say the estate is now "at its height

Uehara Shuzo, Ginjo Sake Furosen Kameno-o, NV BRUNELLODI040225 Villa Tolnay farms at theKameno o is an heirloom table rice, selected by a farmer in the 1890s and later woven into the ancestry of both Koshihikari and Sasanishiki, and it brews into sake with more grip and savor than the modern brewing rices. Uehara Shuzo, in Takashima on the northwest shore of Lake Biwa in Shiga, is the right brewery for it: seventh generation, brewing since 1862, and stubbornly old fashioned. They polish their rice in house, build the starter by the